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Commentary Thou shalt not covet thy neighbor's wave Surfing Lessons: A surfer's guide to life By Elisabeth Gause February 20, 2006 San Diego--In surfing, as in life, you kinda learn as you go along. Even though the rules aren’t written in stone (though that’d sure be nice,) we live by them as if they were. One of our commandments is “Thou shalt not covet thy neighbor’s wave.” Now, we surfers don’t use fancy words like "adulterer;" no, we stick with something a little more scathing like "snake." Let me explain. Surfers paddle out beyond where the waves are breaking and wait for a ride in the line-up. The line-up isn’t single file like you queued up in the first grade; it’s more like the crowd that gathers at a bus stop. Everybody is waiting on the same thing and it’s understood that the person closest to the door is getting onto the bus first. In surfing, the surfer closest to the peak is the first on the wave (or in surf-speak, has priority). After he or she paddles away for their glorious ride, the next surfer slides over or simply takes the next wave. It’s a rotation and it works—most of the time.
You’ve seen them. They’re the jerks who cut you off in traffic. They think rules are made for everybody else. You curse them as they speed away and then it’s over. But in the water, it doesn’t quite end that way. That same selfish hotshot paddles back out and sits right next to you, waiting to snag another wave. Now, where I teach, we do not encourage aggressive behavior. However, in the real world, this pacifist is all for it. The quiet understanding in surfing is that you let someone steal your wave once, but only once. If they do it again, you paddle anyway and drop in on their cold-blooded ass. As you might imagine, the snake doesn’t usually take too kindly to this sort of behavior and reactions vary. The nicest of responses is the whistle or the call of “Behind you!” Both of these are considered civilized, mostly because people accidentally drop in on other’s waves occasionally. When that happens, we try to be as pleasant as possible while implying "Get off my wave!" However, the snake probably knows you saw them and went anyway. If you’re lucky, they won’t say anything, but they’re a snake, so that’s not the most common reaction. What you usually get is the deathglare, the "You can steal my first born, but don’t you dare take my wave" look that would make Medusa envious. Other times, they seek you out and hiss, “That was my wave.” The kinder, gentler surfer can then take the opportunity to use the always-satisfying line: “When you had to paddle around me to get the wave, that was a sign that it wasn’t your wave.” Unfortunately, just as drivers sometimes face "road rage," surfers have to deal with "ride rage" or "wave rage." (We don’t really have a word for it.) The scariest thing I’ve seen was a snake yanking—and I mean yanking—another guy off a wave and his board and beating him in the water. No kidding. They were pounding each other and holding each other’s heads under water. (In the great spirit of vindication, the rager was quickly called out of the water by the lifeguard in a very public and humiliating way so that everybody knew he was a bad, bad boy.) Personally, the worst that’s happened to me—keep in mind that girls have it easier—is when some guy tried to ram his board into mine. First off, that’s just an idiot maneuver. That’s like ramming your car into someone else’s for whatever stupid vengeful reason. Then, when I outmaneuvered the collision, he reached out to push me off the wave. I backed off in total shock. This 40-year-old snake paddled back out and started yelling at me about etiquette. I waited until he got all the way out to the lineup, and when everybody was paying attention I gave him my favorite line: “Is that the only way you can get a wave? Stealing it from a girl?” He pretty much slithered away after that. -------------------- Elisabeth Gause is a freelance writer in San Diego. Suggested Vyuz reading... What it's like to be straight in Hillcrest | By Leopard J. Ferry Erectile dysfunction drugs lift sales in Tijuana | By Larry Knowles San Diego Dolls revive raucous roller derby | By Erin Blakemore L. Ron Hubbard, founder of Scientology, attacked Mexico during World War II | By Larry Knowles The best public places to have sex in San Diego | By Brian Swarthmore Top ten things to complain about in San Diego | By Kate Kowsh |
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