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Hillcrest: cultural enclave or just another gayborhood?

By Erin Blakemore

December 12, 2005

San Diego--From The Castro in San Francisco to Greenwich Village in New York, every major American city has a gay-centric area of town. And if you're San Diegan, you know where to find your dose of gay culture—Hillcrest has long been known as San Diego's queer enclave. But many do not bother to look past the neighborhood's gay image and towards what makes it an indispensable part of the greater community of San Diego—diverse population and a variety of shops, restaurants, quaint houses and friendly neighbors.

The subdivision Hillcrest was first named in 1907, but its gay image only dates from the late 1960s and 1970s, when gay and lesbian residents began buying property and businesses in the area. The first drag show in San Diego was held in 1968, and the mid-1970s marked the beginning of the gay pride parades that are now big business for Hillcrest residents.

Hillcrest wears its identity like a sign

(Image: Larry Knowles)

By the 1980s, its image as a gay village consolidated, Hillcrest became host to queer clubs, bookstores, restaurants, and coffee shop culture. Though it's known for its raucous Gay Pride parade, as well as gay clubs and bars, the neighborhood is home to some of San Diego's gems. People of any sexual preference can enjoy independent booksellers such as Bluestocking Books, the Corvette Diner and the taco shops and pizza places that make up the character of San Diego.

However diverse its actual population, it's no secret that Hillcrest is traveling a road typical of gay enclaves nationwide: the highway to gentrification. Within the last five years, the upscaling of Hillcrest has increased at record speed. From new loft apartments to an upswing in martini bars and fusion restaurants, the area is quickly becoming a chichi shopping destination for those looking for everything from teak furniture to vintage clothing.

This direction is fueled by the investment dollars of gays who have chosen to live in an area where they can freely express their sexual preference. Gay couples are pouring their dollars into an increasingly upscale community—jjust look at the chunk of change you'll have to shell out to park, eat or watch a movie in Hillcrest.

As housing prices on the area's Craftsman cottages and historic bungalows skyrocket, apartment complexes are pushed into the less privileged North Park and Banker's Hill areas. And that makes it harder and harder to opt to live in Hillcrest. Unfortunately, the neighborhood's focus on an upscale lifestyle may serve to obscure problems of poverty and racial inequality of the neighborhood, and hide the realities of its diverse population from the average visitor.

Still, given its central location, vibrant business scene and good connection to public transportation, Hillcrest remains attractive to residents of every stripe. Even better, the area is one of the more pedestrian and biker friendly parts of town. That's why Ryan [last name withheld] decided to move to the area, and he hasn't been disappointed.  "It's pretty tame," he says. "You can definitely find the gay clubs and have fun, but it's also a family-friendly area."

This all-inclusive approach is evident in Hillcrest's myriad activities that anyone can enjoy, from the annual CityFest to the Open Air Book Fair, theatrical performances, and a farmer's market. Attend any of these events and you'll see the true makeup of Hillcrest: a gay neighborhood's requisite flamboyance mixed with the true fabric of San Diego society.

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Erin M. Blakemore is a freelance writer and San Diego ex-patriot. You can read more about her writing--and exploits as a roller derby queen for the Denver Derby Dolls--at http://erinbee.xenius.org

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